History of a nation in a pasta… the malloreddus story

The Sardinians have a pretty colourful history – and it’s reflected in their language and their cuisine, both of which mark them out at times as being distinctly un-Italian. If you attend a family gathering in rural Sardinia, you’ll get a true taste of both. The conversation is loud and passionate but nothing like you’d hear spoken just 300 miles across the Mediterranean. The food and wine, too, differ markedly from other regions. The reasons are many and complex but in the Sardinians’ national dish of malloreddus you can read some of the clues; it’s the entire history of a nation in one tiny pasta.

Pasta and language

They’re pronounced mahl – or – red – doo – zu, which many people believe comes from malloru, or ‘bull’ in one Sardinian dialect, because they resemble ‘fat little calves’. The other theory is that the name is lifted direct from the Latin mallolus, meaning ‘morsel’. Whatever the true explanation, it’s our first clue to how different Sardinia is from the motherland or, probably more accurately, the stepmotherland of Italy.

Of all the European languages derived in full or in part from Latin, Sardinian is the closest by a long chalk, being barely different from Ceasar Augusta’s mother tongue. If you want to know what the 1st Century BC Roman politician Cicero sounded like when he described the Sardinians as ‘those thieves in wool coats’, ask a modern-day Sardinian to translate it.

Pasta and conquest

Malloreddus is a pasta that’s native to Sardinia – I use the word native advisedly, because food here takes on a personality all its own – and it was traditionally flavoured with saffron (clue number two), which imparts a deep golden colour.

The saffron is likely to have found its way to Sardinia on Phoenician boats from what is now Lebanon in the Middle East where we find the earliest records of the spice being used in cooking. Pretty soon the Sardinians had not only acquired a taste for this and other exotic flavours but were busily cultivating their own (more on the Sardinian saffron growers’ fields of ‘Red Gold’ in a future post).

The island by this point had already been occupied for some 2,000 years by a culture whose sophistication we are only just beginning to fully appreciate – the Nuraghic people – and the Phoenicians were the first of their many visitors… the Carthaginians, Romans, the North African Vandals, the Goths, the Byzantines and the bloody Saracens or Moors were all to follow them. It was little wonder that the natives headed for the hills and refused to come down for several centuries.

Pasta and culture

Malloreddus has a distinctive shape and pattern, traditionally made by women rolling the little shells of pasta against wicker and reed baskets that adorned every home. The baskets were used to transport, store and mix food and each region developed its own technique and distinctive design – a skill that sadly is likely to have completely vanished within the next two generations. So the pattern of the malloreddus differed slightly, depending on where you sat down to eat, as it still does today.

In the recipe below we show you how to make rough-backed malloreddus using a hand-held zester, but in some Sardinian kitchens you’ll find a special tool called a ciurili and we’ve even seen the distinctive spiral grooves you find on most pre-packed malloreddus fashioned using the back of a fork. Whatever the pattern, the purpose is to make sure the delicious ragu in which the malloreddus are served, clings to the pasta and doesn’t slide off.

Pasta and love

Malloreddus hold a very special place in every Sardinian’s heart, not least because on her wedding night a Sardinian bride will even now parade through her village, wearing silver jewellery and carrying a basket of the pasta she has made herself to her new husband’s home. He will then scare off the curious entourage that’s followed her by firing rifle shots above their heads before sitting down to eat the malloreddus from the same plate as his betrothed – and you thought spaghetti was romantic!

The following recipe is sufficient to make several meals of malloreddus, which in Sardinia would normally be served in small portions between the anti pasti and the main dish. Follow the instructions for drying the malloreddus then freeze them down in batches.

Malloreddus alla Campidanese is a traditional way to serve the pasta in a rich fresh tomato ragu made with Sardinian sausage and fennel. The recipe comes from the famous Campidano region in the South East of the island – the spiritual home of malloreddus and the area thought to have given the pasta its name.

RECIPE FOR MALLOREDDUS

Ingredients

1. 750g semolina

2. 150g plain flour

3. 3 large eggs

4. 2tbsp olive oil

5. Good pinch of salt

6. Strand of saffron soak in teaspoon of hot water (optional, the semolina and eggs will give the pasta a golden glow)

7. A jug of boiled water that’s been allowed to cool to luke warm
   

Method

In a large bowl, mix together the semolina and flour, then add the eggs, oil, salt and saffron (if using). No need for spoons – just use your hands!

Bring the dough together in the bowl, adding a little water if necessary – do not add too much. It’s better the dough is too dry rather than too wet at this stage.

Turn the dough out onto a large, flat, clean surface and knead for 10-15 mins, using the base of your hand to push the dough away from you and then fold it back in again. It’s quite exhausting – you may need a glass or two of Sardinian cannonau to keep your strength up. Sprinkle the dough occasionally with water to keep it workable. Knead until it’s smooth, elastic and begins to spring back when you push it with your finger. You should start to see it ‘sigh’ when you roll it back into a ball. Put it in a polythene bag and allow to rest for 20 minutes in a cool place.

Cut a portion off the dough and roll into a long, thin sausage about a half an inch wide. Cut into quarter inch slices.

Using your thumb, gently roll the slices of dough away from you down the inside of the zester. You may need to practise a few times to get the right pressure and technique – but it will come!

Spread the malloreddus well apart on a floured surface – make sure they’re not touching, so they dry evenly – dust very lightly with flour and leave them for an hour to dry.

Tip them into a pan of plenty of boiling salted water. The cooking time will depend on how big your malloreddus are, but typically they’ll take 20 mins to cook. They shouldn’t be limp, but they shouldn’t be chewy, either.

Drain and serve in Campidanese or other ragu sauce.

Buon Appetito!

#recipes #malloreddus #saffron #Sardinia #Italy #pasta